2011 GABF Interview with Dave Anderson of Dave’s Brewfarm

Dave’s Brewfarm is nestled in the rolling farmland of western Wisconsin. Only two things differentiate it from the farmsteads that surround it. One is a sign at the top of the driveway declaring that this little, red farmhouse is, in fact, brewery. The second is a tall wind turbine. Owner and brewer Dave Anderson is big into sustainable brewing. The turbine provides a good amount of the power needed to run the combination living space/brewery. A geo-thermal unit helps with heating and cooling. Solar panels to be installed at a later date will eventually aid with heating the hot water needed to brew.

Anderson holds frequent open houses at the brewery – or “labrewatory” as he calls it. At these events people camp at the farm, socialize, and drink the unusual array of beers that he produces there. In this interview we mention two brews that were commercially available in bottles and cans, Brewfarm Select and Matacabras. Sadly, problems with the breweries where these beers were contract brewed and packaged have caused Anderson to discontinue them. While no longer available in retail stores, they will still make appearances at the farm. You’ll just have to go there to sample them.

Matacabras from Dave’s BrewFarm

Anyone who lives up here in the North-Country knows that northerly winds in the wintertime bring frigid unpleasantness. In Minnesota we call them Alberta Clippers. In Spain there are twin arctic winds. The first is called Descuernecabras, the wind that dehorns goats. The second, more vicious twin bears the morbid moniker Matacabras, the wind that kills goats.

Matacabras is also the name of a not-so-menacing beer from Dave’s BrewFarm in Wilson, Wisconsin. The name is appropriate however, as the wind can blow a mean-streak up on the rural ridge where the BrewFarm is situated. It blows hard enough to drive the wind turbine that provides a good percentage of the brewery’s power. As to whether it kills goats…you’ll have to ask Farmer Dave.

Here’s my notes:

Matacabras
Dave’s BrewFarm, Wilson, Wisconsin
Style: Belgiany Specialty Ale
Serving Style: 12 oz Bottle

Aroma: Toasted bread crust maltiness supports the light banana and sugar sweetness of Belgian yeast. Brown sugar mingles with some intriguing fruitiness; candied oranges, raisins, figs. Faint floral aromas float on top.

Appearance: A rocky, ivory-colored head that persists reasonably well. Dark orange/amber color with moderate haze.

Flavor: An herbal, peppery bite of hops and rye greets the tongue at first. That fades mid-palate to reveal toasty, bread-crust malt and loads of candied fruit flavors, brown sugar, raisins, bananas, and a faint tart citrusy note. Alcohol is noticeable and welcome. Finishes dry, with final spicy bite that resolves into long-lingering candied fruit.

Mouthfeel: Creamy and medium-full bodied. Medium-high carbonation lightens it up, but brings some carbonic bite in the beginning. Warming alcohol.

Overall Impression: A Belgian barleywine? An English Dubel? Maybe and Anglo-Belgian Imperial Dunkel? Matacabras offers an ever-changing mix of flavors that roll riotously from one thing to another; at times resolving in articulated layers and at others collapsing together into a chaotic clump. But always that beautiful bread crust.

Dave’s Brewfarm

Last week I spent a great afternoon with “Farmer Dave” Anderson at Dave’s Brewfarm across the river in Wilson, Wisconsin. The brewfarm is a true farmhouse brewery, a live/work space with living quarters upstairs and the “labrewatory” downstairs. One of the great things about this new brewery is the way sustainability has been built into the business. Wind generation and geothermal heating and cooling is just a part of the overall picture.

I’ve written about this aspect of the Brewfarm business this week on the Hop Press at Ratebeer.com. Check it out.